Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these stories and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.